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We
highly recommend the proper use of a crate to aid in housebreaking the puppy,
and to prevent destructive chewing when you’re not watching. We prefer the
fiberglass Vari-Kennels to wire crates, as they are more den-like and many dogs
feel more secure. Also we have found them safer as an avid chewer can do serious
damage to teeth by chewing the bars of a wire crate (though we have also seen
avid chewers do damage to Vari-Kennels too!). The Vari-Kennel 400 is the size we
use for our Beardies. It measures 36”L x 24”W x 26”H. Beardie puppies grow
very rapidly so it would be a waste of money to purchase a smaller crate
initially, as the pup may outgrow it in just a few months! The cheapest place to
purchase a crate is, again, the Pet Supply
House. Local stores will carry Vari-Kennels,
but will likely charge twice as much for them. Cherrybrook,
a US mail order supply company, also sells Vari-Kennels and other supplies at
good prices.
We do not recommend purchasing the floor grate for the Vari-Kennel, as they can
be dangerous. There have been stories of toes caught, or tags from the dog’s
collar hanging through the grate and getting stuck resulting in near strangling.
Instead, cut pieces from a carpet remnant for each crate, or cut pegboard
to size for the floor. These are cheap, and easily discarded should they get
soiled. Many dogs, ours included, prefer no flooring in the crate and
will bunch up any blankets or flooring so they can lie on the cool fiberglass
floor.
An ex-pen is a fold-up wire enclosure, generally consisting of 8, 2’ wide panels. An ex-pen comes in very handy if the pup must be left alone for long periods - too long a time to be kept confined to a crate - such as when its owners are at work. The pen provides a secure enclosure, large enough that the pup can stretch his legs and move around a bit, and gives you the peace of mind that the pup is safe and not getting into trouble. During housetraining the pen gives the pup enough space that if he can’t yet hold it and must go to the bathroom, he is not forced to sit in it as he would be in a crate. This is important because if the pup becomes used to lying in his mess, which goes against his natural inclination to be clean, he will be much harder to housetrain. Ex-pens come in various heights, but we use the 42”H ones. These are also available from the Pet Supply House or Cherrybrook.
Collar
& Leash
Every dog needs these, and there are dozens of styles
to choose from. Keep in mind that the leash should be comfortable in your hand
so avoid those made of chain, or those that are very thin. 1/2” or 3/4” flat
nylon or leather leashes, with a length of about 6’ are best. Flexi-leashes,
retractable leashes that extend to 20’ or more, are great for giving your dog
a bit more freedom to romp, for instance in a park, without the danger of
him/her being off leash. If you have never used one before, practice until you
are comfortable with it before using it with your dog. If you are unable to
quickly retract it, it just becomes a very long leash which can get tangled
around things, and can be dangerous if your dog is headed towards something
harmful (eg. the road, an aggressive dog, a person who doesn’t like dogs,
etc.) and you are unable to properly use the leash to stop him/her. Also, the
standard flexi leads use a fairly thin round line which can cause injury if it
gets wrapped around your leg or you inadvertently try to grab it in an
emergency. Some newer ones use flat 1/2" nylon for the whole line which is
much better.
Many dog owners use a
1/2” or 3/4” flat
nylon, quick-release, adjustable collar. They’re great for pups who grow by
the day, and probably do the least damage, either breakage or matting, to adult
coats. The only drawback is that should the dog be seriously startled there is
the possibility of him/her backing out of the collar. Plus I’ve found I often
trap hair in the snap when I’m putting them on.
For these reasons
my favourite collar is called a Premier collar. This is a flat nylon adjustable
martingale style collar, which slips over the dog’s head and tightens enough
to be secure if the dog tries to back out but not enough to choke.
Another choice is a ‘choke collar’. We
prefer the rolled nylon choke collars which snap around the neck rather than
slip over the head. This way they can be more accurately sized. These can,
however, bind up coat and end up pulling the hair, making it quite uncomfortable
for the dog. Chain choke collars can be used but they will break off large
amounts of neck coat. Flat choke collars made of 1/2" or 3/4" nylon
are also ok, and these are probably gentler on a Beardie's coat than the rolled
nylon collars. With any type of choke collar it is important that it be
put on correctly (if put on incorrectly it will not loosen when a correction is
given), and it is absolutely imperative that it NEVER be left on the dog. Many
cases of dogs choking to death have been reported by owners whose dogs were
wearing choke collars and accidentally hung themselves!
Personally I believe that choke collars
aren’t necessary, and any training can be done without resorting to physically
correcting the dog. Choke collars do offer more security for a dog that might
startle and try and back out of the collar, since they do tighten unlike a basic
snap collar, however since discovering the Premier collar which offers the same
security in a much more humane package, I recommend that first and foremost.
Food/Water
Dishes
Some Beardies can have a reaction to plastic dishes, resulting in loss of
pigment on their nose and lips. For this reason, and for ease of cleaning and
prevention of bacteria growth, we prefer stainless steel dishes.
Toys
When purchasing toys for your dog, safety should be the primary concern. We have
found the safest, sturdiest toys to be: rubber Kong toys (and now bones, balls,
and other shapes made from the same super strong rubber), large marrow bones,
Nylabones, Galileo bones, and knotted rope toys. The Kong toys and marrow bones can be made
more interesting by putting peanut butter, liverwurst, or cheez-whiz inside
them. Depending on how destructive
or avid a chewer your dog is, other toys that may be fine are stuffed toys,
Gumabones, rubber tugs or rings, or large sturdy vinyl squeaky toys. Some
Beardies will be gentle with the latter bunch of toys, while others will
demolish them quickly and can swallow pieces of them, which can be dangerous.
Keep in mind that with the very hard toys such as marrow bones and Galileo bones
can cause tooth wear or possibly breakage in aggressive chewers, and some dogs
can chew sharp 'splinters' off of certain marrow bones, which can be potentially
dangerous if swallowed.
Toys that are NOT recommended are: Pigs’
ears and Chew hooves. Dogs love them but they are small and easily softened by
chewing, making them prime candidates for being swallowed, causing choking, or
blockages requiring surgery (they do not break down in the stomach). They also
smell awful when chewed! Rawhides are another dangerous toy. Aesthetically they
cause a goopy mess in Beardie fur when chewed; more seriously they are quick to
soften and are then easily swallowed, again offering a prime cause of death by
choking. As a treat we occasionally give some of our less aggressive chewers
rolled 1’ long rawhide sticks. They are only allowed them under complete
supervision, and when they get down to about 6” or 7” they are thrown out.
The Nylabone edible bones (carrot, spinach, and other flavours) can be good for
some dogs, but other dogs will try to swallow large chunks which could cause a
blockage. They also should be given only occasionally since large amounts can
cause digestive upset. The main message
here is caution. Some toys may be
fine for one dog but not another, and generally a few toys are better than a
dozen.
[Breed
Standard] [Temperament] [Grooming]
[Colours] [Health] [Exercise
Needs] [Training]
[Which Products Should I Buy] [Raising Your New
Puppy]
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